DIY Vinyl Wrap: Day 2

Well I actually got 2 fenders done today. The process gets a lot quicker with practice and you learn how to work with the material. The fenders are the smallest pieces on my car, other than ground effects. Its best to work with small pieces and manipulate the material, rather than start with big pieces.

This matte material works really well with edges and different contours. On a bubble car like the Altima, I think the affects are not as great as an application on a more modern car.

The fenders took less than an hour each. I want to see the work that is done by professionals because if they work as fast or faster than the rate that I’m going, they would easily finish a car in a day.

– Billy

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DIY Vinyl Car Wrap

So this is the first step that I took towards wrapping the car, well the second step after the grille really. I’m only going to show the results in this post because I did not have my camera with me at the time. I’m going to do the drivers side fender tonight and I’ll post more pictures of the entire process, and the tools involved.

What do you think? I’m iffy about it… Sometimes it looks like primer. Other times, it looks like this deep, almost satin like finish. I guess I need to finish more panels to really get a feeling of the car. ATM, I think its horrible. The car is 4 different colours….. it makes me sad. Better get working!

– Billy

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Nissan Altima Aftermarket Suspension Setup

This post will explain my aftermarket suspension setup. It will also showcase how to clean your suspension setup or ‘overhaul’ the components, a process that should be done at least once a year. Not everyone gets the luxury of rebuilding but these coilovers are so cheap, you can afford to buy another set and rotate the setups.

Rear Setup: Cusco S13 Camber Plate, Eibach Main & tender Springs, Thrust Bearing, revalved to match spring specification.

To start off, the first issue that I would like to mention is that the Nissan Altima does not have many aftermarket suspension options. The immediate aftermarket shock providers are D2 Suspension, and K sport suspension. Both of these companies manufacture in Taiwan and neither of them have a North American rebuild policy. For them, it’s just much easier to sell you a brand new valve body, rather than rebuild your existing shock. BC, Megan, HSD. Most of these are from Taiwan.

One of the many complaints about these Taiwanese suspensions is their failure rate. It’s a hit or a miss. If you buy one of these units, their quality control is not as good as comparable Japanese manufacturers. The D2 and Ksport coilovers have been known to leak, and or, not provide adequate suspension characteristics.

I can only speak on behalf of my own experience and what I’ve heard. Taiwanese coilover springs do not have a consistent spring rate as a result of poor quality control. When you buy springs from reputable companies in the industry such as Eibach for example, you know that a 500lb spring is 500lb. There have been instances where the spring weight on each corner of a Taiwanese coilover kit has varied. This makes for poor handling and poor suspension dynamics. In this situation, people attempt to counter the odd acting suspension by utilizing their dampers.

One of the issue with Taiwanese Dampers is that they are not setup for different spring rates. People order custom spring rates assuming that the valving, rebound and compression will be adjusted accordingly to match. This is not a correct assumption. These companies put the same valve body on whichever spring weight setup regardless, as they trust that the customer will utilize the damper adjustment to make their own corrections.
The result is a customer who suffers from uneven rebound issues and inadequate dampening.

I am an advocate for rebuilding these coilovers with local talent. Professional suspension guru’s and rebuilders will provide you with what you need, because the reality is that the hardware isn’t the issue, it’s the way they are built that’s the problem. Any shop that works on Ohlins or Koni’s should be able to disassemble and reassemble these shocks. I would never buy a brand new Taiwanese replacement unit, knowing that you’ll get the same mismanaged piece as you did before.

Now for the overhaul.

Disassemble your shock. Remove the camber plate, springs, lower perch, everything. Notice the bare aluminum on the valve body threads. The threads must be cleaned so that all debris is removed. Debris in the thread will eat up the threads when shock components are threaded on. I cleaned the units with a microfiber cloth, and WD-40/Simple Green De-greaser. Brake cleaner and other cleaning agents will also work well.

This is the nitrogen valve at the bottom of the shock. The valve cap covers the gas canister ‘nipple’ hehehe, and is charged. Pay special note to the seal, or, o-ring *not pictured* which is placed on top of the valve. Poor quality control lead to the failure of one of my shocks, because an installer placed 2-seals on the valve, one on top of another. The seals pushed down on the ‘nipple’ hehehe, and prematurely released the nitrogen charge.

The shock has an internalized cleaner that stops debris from falling into the valve body. You can see this from the streaks on the shock strut. Make sure this area is clean. My suspension guy recommends that the shock boot be removed. The shock boot tends to trap debris just as much as it keeps material out. Trapped debris will scratch the shock strut, possibly leading to a leak.

This is an image of the debris that fell off the shock while I was cleaning it. All of these debris and particles can accumulate and cause major headaches. You don’t want this material getting inside your shock.

Make sure the pillow ball joint on your camber plate is articulating properly. If it binds, you will need to replace it. I sprayed a 2 coats of telfon lubricant while the unit was disassembled. When the teflon dried, I sprayed down an additional coat of Lithium grease.

This is a Torrington, or Thrust Bearing. A lot of people are not aware that their springs rotate under compression and rebound. Some people try to combat the rotation by tightening down their spring mounts as much as possible. It does not make sense to combat the natural function of the spring. Thrust bearings allow the spring to rotate as designed. Thrust bearings can only be used when the spring is secured *no slack*.

This is my Eibach Tender spring. MADE IN GERMANY. Top notch quality. Thumbs up! The tender spring takes some of the smaller bumps and minor suspension movements on the car without having to activate the main spring. Having a main and tender spring system can be described as having a variable suspension spring, such that the coilover has 2 sprung characteristics. The added physical function of a tender spring is that it removes the slack I mentioned from the coilover system. This allows me to run the Thrust bearing to allow the springs to rotate.

This is the sleeve that connects the Main and Tender spring. It does not take any weight or load. The main function is to align the two springs together and to make sure they are connected at all times.

Make sure you use plenty of anti-seize after you are done cleaning the suspension during reassembly.

Re-assemble, and install.

More Technical Notes:

These units are relatively inexpensive compared to say, Ohlins or AST’s, it’s no wonder people opt for a cheaper alternative. The shock setup that I have is a monotube configuration, where the user can only control compression and rebound valving. Because this system is so simple, the internal design is very much like a basic set of Ohlins or AST’s. I’m not going to compare KW variants because they definitely have a more complex internal structure.

The valve body utilizes 4x quad seal setup with a floating piston for oil control. The nitrogen charge is deposited from the bottom. The amount of oil in the unit must dampen and work in unison to your outside spring rate. The nitrogen charge and amount of charge will allow for rebound control, in unison with the valve piston design.

– Billy

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DIY Carbon Fiber: Door cards

Even though I decided to vinyl my front grille, rather than carbon fiber it, it’s only temporary. For now, I am transferring my carbon fiber efforts to lighten up the interior and door cards. This will give me practice to work with the material, straighten out the weave and to make sure the carbon work on the outside of the car will be nice and clean. I emphasize nice and clean because DIY carbon fiber is not as easy as the internet may make it seem.

I took the effort to strip the door cards, remove the existing fabric and vinyl. I put down a thick layer of mold release wax and then two coats of PVA.  I laid down the carbon and wet-applied the resin. Here’s the first layer. 

It might look pretty like a pretty good picture but the weave has some inconsistencies that I want to cover with the 2nd layer. I hope the end product will look much better. More to come.

– Billy

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Sick of destroying dash(an) fittings

Following up on the prior posts with my tilt mounted radiator, I had some work done to the filler neck which required hydraulic fittings. I got my buddy over at Peak Velocity to weld on some -10 male and female fittings which I purchased from ebay.

The fittings went on really smooth, but removing them was another matter.
The following images display the carnage that followed.

Now I’ll have to flush my cooling system, remove my radiator and get this all sorted out…. bugger…

– Billy

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Happy Happy

Very happy to update that I have been reviewing chassis dimensions and that the S13 rear subframe is the closest RWD subframe which can fit the 1995 nissan altima. No changes are required in the Z axis, which is the most significant component of the chassis dynamics. The subframe mounts can be changed to whichever X & Y-axis positions as deemed necessary.

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I’ve been reading a lot about clutches of late. Trying to understand how to translate the engine power into the drivetrain, and how to reduce drivetrain loss as much as possible as sooner or later, the awd system will go on. Right now i’m exploring the options between Spec Clutch, Competition Clutch, Fidanza and ACT.

I thought I’d share this ridiculously informative video from PRI 1006 via I’m afraid I haven’t figured out how to embed this video yet but please click on the link and I promise you the most informative video on clutches you’ll see to date.


– Bill

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A preview

Hey all

The car is still at the shop. I’m pretty upset at how long it has taken to do a 2 hour job. It’s been sitting outside for a month. If I didn’t have a car cover, they would have left it in a mound of poop.

Anyways. Here is a preview of how the car will look like:


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Build Update

I’m splitting my time between work and play, and then there is the build.

A lot of progress has been made but yet there is still so much to do. When I spent all that time  dismantling everything…I didn’t realize exactly how much I did until I had to put it all back together. Loctite. Torque specs. Factory Service Manual. Proper.

On components that do not have specifications, I’m left in a bit of confusion. For example:

My new exhaust manifold is great. I love it. It promises significant increases in flow over my old turbonetics log manifold. That is not without compromise as seen in the prior images (fitment issues). Well the fitment woes continue today as I try to setup my oil return lines. This manifold is used, and the seller provided me with his return line and I have no idea how he managed to get it through this traffic jam of piping.

I’m using a lot of DEI wrap to keep the heat in the exhaust and downpipe. I’m going to have to figure out a way to snake the turbo return line to that -10 an male fitting on the lower left. You cannot even see the turbo outlet….

– awdaltima

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Update: getting the car on the road

Hey all

I can no longer wait and complete the AWD project at this time. The garage will no longer be available as of May, so I need to get her back up and running. This post is also for Jermaine (a.k.a. ninety9gle ) because he asked for an update, and also because he needs an appropriate reference for how NOT to ghetto out a car.

Here are some progress images for the radiator setup. The radiator is an mishimoto Sr20 setup and FAL dual puller fans. Due to the new turbo manifold and downpipe, I don’t have enough room to run the prior and oem radiator + fan setup. I’ve had to modify the lower radiator mounts so that I can run the rad on an angle. In addition, I’ve removed the hood latch and I’m switching to aero-catch locking hood pins.

tight clearance to the headlight.

The top of the radiator has been pushed out towards the front grille and sits on a 10 degree angle. The top radiator mounting tabs are custom. This isn’t so much an attempt at a V-mount as it is necessity.

The tight space between the fan motor and one of the exhaust manifold runners is a concern. I am considering the need to wrap this runner in exhaust heat wrap.

Here are some other images for those who have not seen my setup.


That’s it for now.

– Billy

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Supertech Valve & Valve Spring Dimensions for the KA24DE

Nissan KA24DE 2.4lts DOHC
Head Diam Stem Diam Length Black Nitrided Head Diam Stem Diam Length Black Nitrided
240 SX/Altima 91-99 36.60mm
(std) 6.97mm 101.32mm NIVN-1… 31.80mm
(+0.5) 6.94mm 99.00mm NEVN-1…
(+0.5) NIVN-1… 32.00mm
(+0.7) NEVI-1…
VALVE SPRINGS Outer Spring Inner Spring Pressure Max Lift Coil Bind Rate Titanium Retainer
Part Number O.D. (MM) I.D. (MM) O.D. (MM) I.D. (MM) Seat Open mm mm lbs/mm Part Number
SPR-H1000D/240 29.65mm 21.85mm 20.50mm 15.50mm 96@11.80 240@11.80 14.00mm 20.70mm 12.80mm RET-H7…
SPR-H100DR/240 30.20mm 22.20mm 22.20mm 16.80mm 84@34.85 225@11.80 14.20mm 20.50mm 12.00mm RET-H7…
SPR-H1002D/240 29.05mm 21.85mm 20.50mm 15.50mm 73@34.85 225@11.80 15.30mm 19.50mm 10.00mm RET-H7…

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Engine Performance Calculations

Mean Piston Speed

MPS = 2 * Stroke * RPM / 60

@ 3500 RPM
MPS = 2*(96/1000)*3500/ 60
= 11.2 m/s

@ 7500 RPM
= 24 m/s

@ 8000 RPM
MPS = 2*(96/1000)*8000/ 60
= 25.6 m/s

Stock Honda S2k has a MSP of 25.2 m/s where as F1 cars have upwards of 25 + m/s.

Stroke Bore Ratio
Stroke: 96mm
Bore: 89.5mm
Ratio: stroke/bore
= 1.07

KA is considered a long stroke engine just barely with the CP .20 bore pistons. The engine is just out of square with a 1:1.07 ratio.

Estimated Engine Displacement with new pistons:
Original: 2389 cc
New: 2410 cc

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Suspension Geometry information

Just updated the web-blog with suspension specifications and parts codes for references.

All of the recent posts relate to specifications as I am slowly modelling the vehicle.

Parallel Linkage to Subframe Rod End
Major Diameter: 18.16mm (M18) [0.714”]
Minor Diameter:17.14mm
Thread Pitch: 16 in 1inch (0.0625mm)
Right Hand Thread
Ball Bore: 16.14mm 0.625”]
Linkage Length:

Toe Arm Linkage
Rod End Ball bore:
Rod End Thread Pitch: 1.5
Rod End Thread size: M18
Linkage Length:

Tie Rod
Outer Rod end Ball Bore:
Outer Rod end thread size:

Inner tie rod outside thead size:
Inner tie rod inside thread size:

D2 Coilovers
D2 Monotube Struts are 50mm in diameter

Torrington NTA-4052 Needle Thrust Bearing Cage And Roller Assembly x4
Bore Diameter: 2.5”
Outside Diameter: 3.25”
Overall Width: 0.0781”
Torrington TRA-4052 Needle Thrust Bearing Race x 8
Bore Diameter: 2.5”
Outside Diameter: 3.25”
Overall Width: 0.032”

Front Suspension Travel:
Compressed: 3 ½”
Spring I.D.: 2.5”
Front Main spring rate: 500lb. (9K)
Front Main spring Coils: 6
Front Main Spring Length: 6”
Front strut spare height: 2.5”
Front Tender spring rate: (200lb.)
Tender spring Coils: 5
Tender spring OD: 89mm
Tender spring height (Free Length): 3.54” (90mm)
Front Rate before Primary Spring:143lb.

Rear Suspension Travel:
Free: 5 7/8” from fender to edge of wheel
Compressed: 3 ½”
Spring I.D.: 2.5”
Rear Main spring rate: 440lb. (8k)
Rear Main spring Coils: 6
Rear Main Spring Length:8”
Rear strut spare height: 5”
Rear Tender spring rate: (150lb.)
Tender spring Coils:7
Tender spring OD:89mm
Tender spring height (Free Length): 101.5mm
Rear Drop Zone Top Hat
perch hole I.D: 22mm
height of hat: 12.96mm
Cusco Camber Plate Ball Bore: 18mm
Cusco Camber Plate Ball Diameter: 25mm
D2 dampening strut: 12mm
Rear Tender Rate before Primary Spring:112lb.

CAMBER (July 25, 2009)
FRONT DRIVER: – 2.4 degrees
REAR DRIVER: -1.8 degrees

Front Endlinks
Ball bore:10mm

Rear Endlinks
Inner bolts: 15mm
Outer bolt: 16mm
Ball Bore: 10mm

Front Sway Bar

Rear Sway Bar
Diameter: 22mm (7/8”)

240sx s14 rear suspension
The rear suspension tends to toe IN under acceleration/etc.
– Toe in helps with power-down out of a corner with the rear multi-link setup, and gives better stability throughout corners, as opposed to the twitchy toe out condition.
– Running 0 static toe in the rear, and having mostly upgraded/spherical bearings will decrease the amount of toe in throughout compression/droop, and using the specs plotted above, I should see all toe in, and NO toe out. (desirable).

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CP Pistons Specification

Bore Diameter: 3.524″ (89.5mm)
Clearance: 0.0035″ (0.0889mm)
Compression Height: 1.339″ (34.01mm)
Piston Size at Gauge Point 0.5″ (12.7mm) up from Bottom of Skirt 3.5205″ (89.42mm)
Top Groove Width: 0.04″ (1.016mm)
2nd Groove Width: 0.048″ (1.2192mm)
3rd Groove Width: 0.111″ (2.8194mm)

Top Groove Diameter: 3.223″ (81.864mm)
2nd Groove Diameter: 3.181″ (80.7974mm)
3rd Groove Diameter: 3.209″ (81.509mm)

Dish Depth: -0.215″ (-5.461mm)
Pin Diameter: 0.927″ (23.546mm)
Pin Length: 2.5″ (63.5mm)
Lock Type: .063 Wire

Weight: 346 grams (0.762lbs. each) *4= 3.048 lbs.

Current rotating assembly weight tally: 45.32 + 3.05 = 48.37 lbs.

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P-Series Bearings

These are not to be confused with the standard passenger car and light truck parts for the same retention applications which also have a “P” suffix letter. These high performance parts have unique core part numbers different from the standard parts for the same application. P series parts are the oldest series of Clevite high performance bearings. The rod bearings in this series typically have the greatest amount of eccentricity. Most
rod bearings are available either with or without dowel holes for use in aluminum rods. Most P series main sets are full grooved to maximize oil flow to the rod bearings. Both rods and mains have high crush for maximum retention, and a reduced overlay thickness to prevent overlay fatigue, sometimes referred to as hen tracking.

High crush for better seating and retention. High eccentricity accommodates rod bore distortion. Hardened steel backing for greater strength. Strong, extra-thin overlay to withstand high loading and resist flaking. Grooved lower mains maintain 360 degree oiling.
Rod bearings use a hardened steel back for added strength and resistance to fretting. Extra
clearance rod bearings are available for .001” additional clearance and select fitting. Use the P series rods where extremely high RPM’s cause severe rod bore close-in. This is typically indicated by nearly full parting line to parting line shaft contact with bearings having less eccentricity. Use P series mains where higher eccentricity is desired to narrow bearing contact patterns and to provide increased oiling to rod earings. Rod bearing oil starvation is typically indicated by polishing and smearing of the bearing surface, possibly accompanied by discoloration predominantly concentrated at the axial center of the bearings.

Bearing Material: Tm-1 (Steel Backed copper-lead Matrix with overlay)
Clevite Part # CB-1589P
Available Sizes STD, .25mm, .50mm

Standard Shaft Diameter 1.9670/1.9675
Vertical Oil Clearance 0.0004/0.0024 *crazy thin film*
Max Wall 0.0594
Brg. O.D. or Housing Bore 2.0866/2.0871
Max Length 0.7870

Main Bearing Set
Bearing Material: Tm-1 (Steel Backed copper-lead Matrix with overlay)
Clevite Part # MS-1949P
MS-3341P #1-2-4-5
MS-3342P(F) #3
Available Sizes STD, .25mm, .50mm

Standard Shaft Diameter 2.3606″/2.3615″
Vertical Oil Clearance 0.0005″/0.0038″
Max Wall 0.0722″
Brg. O.D. or Housing Bore 2.5063″/2.5068″
Max Length 0.7480″

Standard Shaft Diameter 2.3606″/2.3615″
Vertical Oil Clearance 0.0005″/0.0038″
Max Wall 0.0722″
Brg. O.D. or Housing Bore 2.5063″/2.5068″
Max Length 1.0610″

When measuring bearings, measurements should always be taken at 90 degrees to the parting line to determine the minimum clearance.
If measuring the bearing wall thickness, use a special micrometer with a ball anvil to fit the curvature of the bearing I.D. The best way to determine bearing clearance is to measure the bearing ID with the bearings installed in the housing and the bolts torqued to the specified assembly torque. Use a dial bore gage to measure the bearing ID at 90 degrees to the parting line, then subtract shaft size from bearing ID to determine clearance. If the dial bore gage is zeroed at the actual diameter of the
crankshaft journal to be installed, the dial bore gage will then read clearance directly and the subtraction calculation can be eliminated. About .001” clearance per inch of shaft diameter is a good rule of thumb for clearance. Increasing the total by about .0005” will add a little margin of safety when starting out, especially for rods.

Example: .001” X 2.100 = .0021” then add .0005”, so starting out set clearance at .0026” for a 2.100 shaft.

If clearance adjustments need to be made, use either an extra clearance part for more clearance, or an undersize part for less clearance. It is permissible to mix sizes if less than .001” adjustment in clearance IS desired. When mixing sizes for select fitting never mix parts having more than .0005” difference in wall size, and always install the thickest wall shell in the upper position if installing a rod bearing, or the lower position if installing a main bearing. When working with a reground shaft always measure assembled bearing ID’s first and have the shaft sized to produce the desired clearance since there are no extra clearance parts available for undersize shafts. When measuring a bearing ID or wall thickness avoid measuring at the parting line. As the “Bearing Design” diagram illustrates there is a parting line relief machined into nearly all bearing shells. This relief is to allow for any mis-match between upper and lower shells due to tolerance differences, or possibly resulting from cap shift or twist during assembly. To determine bearing wall eccentricity or assembled bearing ID ovality, measure at a point at least 3/8” away from the parting line.

When installing any bearing DO NOT ATTEMPT TO POLISH THE BEARING RUNNING SURFACE WITH ANY TYPE OF ABRASIVE PAD OR PAPER. Bearing overlay layers are extremely soft and thin, typically .0005” on high performance parts. These thin layers can easily be damaged or removed by abrasive media. Because the overlay layer is electroplated, it may exhibit microscopic plating nodules that make it feel slightly rough. The nodules are the same material as the rest of the plated layer and will quickly be flattened by the shaft. Bearing surfaces can be lightly burnished with solvent and a paper towel if desired.

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Crankshaft stroke 96.00mm (3.77″)
Rod to Stroke Ratio: 1.72:1
Rod: 49.96-49.97 mm **BEARING/Journal size???
Main: 59.96-59.97 mm
Flange Thread: M12x1.5-6H
Counterweight Diameter: 6.520″ (165.6 mm)
Distance from the centerline of the Main -3.260″ (82.8 mm)

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documenting some specifications.

Eagle Rods for the KA24DE Part #CRS6496N3D
630 grams each equating to 1.38LB respectively.
That’s 5.52LB for all four Rods. (+ Crankshaft [39.8LB] = 45.32LB)

Rod Length is 6.496 inches (164.9984 mm)
Pin Size is 0.827 inches (21.0058mm)
Journal Size is 1.967 inches (49.961 mm)
HP Rating @ 900 HP

Socket Size: 7/16″
Under Head Length:1.500″
Thread Size: 3/8″
Torque: 43 ftlbs.

CP PISTONS for the KA24DE Part #SC7900
Bore 3.524 (89.5mm)
CH 1.339 *compression height*
CR 9.0 *compression ratio*
Ring gap application for Nitrous/Turbo and Supercharged specifications.

TOP RING > Bore x .0055″
(3.5236 x .0055) = 0.01937″ gap

SECOND RING > .004″ to .008″ Bigger than Top Ring
@ .004″+= .02337″
@ .005″+= .02437″
@ .006″+= .02537″
@ .007″+= .02637″
@ .008″+= .02737″

Minimum 0.015″
DO NOT FILE. ** Not sure what this means yet….. **

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Hey all

I’ll be heading out to Asia for the next month or so for Vacation. In the mean time I’m working on completing my Graduate thesis so I’m sorry for the downtime. I have been fiddling around with the car. I will post updates when I get back.


– Billy

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Carbon Fiber Trunk

So I’m one of those enthusiasts that loves the efficiency of a lightweight chassis. A lot of people achieve that by utilizing carbon fiber, in other words, I’m a carbon whore lol

I had multiple body panel components hanging in my bedroom for eons before I finally purchased this build chassis and it was time to put them on the car, get them out of my room before they fell on me while I slept.

The first component I wanted to test fit was my Carbon Fiber Trunk, produced by Chaser Aerodynamics. I had waited several weeks for the piece and when it came, it came damaged. Woot. Unfortunately for me, it was also their last one so I bit the bullet and sucked it up. The original trunk utilizes two bars in torsion to allow the trunk to easily swing open when needed. This negates the actual fact that the oem trunk lid weighs upwards of 35lb. The aftermarket Carbon component weighs 12lb. This piece is wet-carbon, and does not appear to be a fiberglass overlay *single sheet of carbon laid on top of fiberglass for aesthetic effect*. It has a FPR substructure and seems to be made pretty well.

As a temporary solution I have placed a layer of clear vinyl over it to protect it. I have yet to think of a way to correct and re-finish this issue so if you guys know a good method, please, do tell.

Fitting the piece took a lot of adjustment, a lot of back and forth, left and right. At the end of the day the point was to make sure that the trunk lid did not leak, and that the clearances weren’t TOO substantial from the rest of the bodywork. I think I did a decent job.


– Billy

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Brian Crower FCW – Knife Edged & Balanced

Continuing with the development of the crankshaft, work was given to Gord Bush to develop the piece so that it could run as efficient as possible. This included a process called Knife Edging. The large masses of the counterweight create a greater volume of turbulence within the engine as the rotating assembly spins. The counterweights come in contact with your oil and splashes the lubricant within the engine, inducing oxygen and other gasses into the oil. Some say that the gas created from violent turbulence acidifies your oils and shortens the lifespan of your lubricants.

The idea is to remove material from the counterweights such that the counterweight slices through the oil & gases in your engine, much like that of a knife through air, or any other material. By knife edging the crank, it eliminates the need to utilize crank scrapers, which many KA enthusiasts may swear by. Crank scrapers or “Windage tray’s” like the ones made by Xcessive manufacturing are utilized to literally scrape off oils which bond to crankshaft counterweights as they are rotating. With the knife edging process, you no longer need to scrape off the oils as the reduction of crankshaft material allows the oil to spin off at a faster capacity.

The Brian Crower Crankshaft was originally weighed at 45lb. Gord removed upwards of 5lb via the knife edging process. The resultant weight of the piece was approximately 39.8lb, 5.8lb heavier than a stock crankshaft.

These holes are the original locations from which the technicians from BC removed material to balance the Crankshaft.

Here you can see a sectional profile of the crankshaft counterweights. When compared to the OEM piece in my original post, you can see that the mass of material is greatly reduced, yet the counterweight dynamic of the crankshaft still exists.

Here you can see that the oil plug has been placed into the crankshaft. The installation of the plugs required a process called ‘stalking’, from which the installer uses a punch to drive the crankshaft material into the plug to keep it in place.

I promptly requested that Gord complete a full balancing of the Crankshaft after the knife edging was completed. The material was taken off the top profile of the counterweights.

And here is the crankshaft, test fitted into the engine block.

I guess that covers part 3 of the crankshaft posts. The knife edging allowed for just enough clearance with the girdle such that I did not have to weaken the piece by cutting into it. Had the crankshaft not been knife edged, the problem would still exist. At the same time, had the crankshaft not bee knife edged, I would not be able to retain the original piston squirter’s that are mounted on the underside of the engine. They do however need modification and I will cover that in a later post.

Cheers for now! Have a Happy Chinese New Years!

– Billy

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